The Squares (Places) in the Old Town of Vence
Quiet Sanctuaries in the Bustling Maze of Streets and Alleys

One of the many delights in visiting an old medieval village, such as the old town of Vence, is wandering through the narrow, twisting, meandering streets and alleys. If you don’t know your way around it’s easy to get lost. But that too is another one of the pleasures. Rambling aimlessly through the complex maze of streets, waiting with anticipation to see what you might find around the next corner.

The French even have a word for it, the verb “flâner,” which means to stroll or to wander with no particular destination, paying close attention to and noticing all the small details that others miss in their haste to get from point A to point B. It’s been called “the art of taking a stroll” or “wandering like you mean it.” It’s so French that for some it’s almost a way of life. Sadly, we have no equivalent English word because it’s a concept that is much less common in the United States.

If you’ve ever studied art and/or graphic design you might be familiar with the concept of “white space” or “negative space,” an essential part of effective design. This refers to the empty or unused areas of a design. It creates breathing room for the elements in a design, enhancing balance and focus. (Despite the name this space doesn’t have to be white, it can be any color or texture.) White space plays a critical role in the overall aesthetics of a piece and the experience of the viewer.

The same is true for the layout of any village, town or city, regardless of the size. The “white spaces” in this case are the squares (also known as “places”) which can be found spread throughout the helter-skelter tangle of streets and alleyways. It often seems that the layout of these old villages has no rhyme or reason, that everything was just thrown together aimlessly and haphazardly. The streets rarely follow any kind of grid or plan that makes any sense. The squares have a somewhat calming effect, providing a sort of peaceful refuge among the chaos.

Today towns and cities are developed using modern concepts of “urban planning” where everything is planned and laid out far in advance of the actual construction. Some form of urban planning has been in place for thousands of years, back to the Romans and even before, though it was not always as comprehensive and far-reaching as it is today. Many small villages grew more organically, with one small section being added after another. Even in these cases squares have always been an integral part of how almost every village, town or city evolved.

These squares, whether big or small, offer a refreshing respite to the bustle and sensory overload which can occur when one small street leads into another and then another and then another. We need a place to pause and relax. A place to gather our thoughts and unwind. A place where children can play and old men and women can sit on benches enjoying the warm afternoon sun. A place where tourists can collect themselves and absorb all that they’ve seen. A place where friends can sit in an outdoor café and catch up on each other’s busy lives. A place where families can enjoy an evening meal under a dark summer sky filled with stars.

The Places of the Old Town

You’ll find a number of such squares in the old town of Vence. Some are quite old, such as Place Clémenceau which dates back to Roman times. Some are relatively new, such as Place Surian which was created in 1787 when a new town hall was built. Place Godeau only exists because the former town cemetery was dug up and moved to a new location outside of town. Place du Peyra was for many years a kind of town forum where residents would gather for a variety of civic functions and affairs. They differ in size and shape and each has its own very distinctive identity and charm.

In recent years the city of Vence has taken a keen interest in maintaining the appearance of these wonderful squares in the old town. Financial incentives have been made available to owners for the purpose of rehabilitating the façades and other improvements. Many of the houses have been restored. All of the squares have now been paved and tiled with beautiful stonework.

One of the things that makes the small squares inside the Vence old town so special is the lack of automobiles. Cars are permitted inside the old town only on a very limited basis, usually just for deliveries or drop-offs. You won’t find cars parked all over these squares as you will in the old towns of many other French towns. (The one exception is Place Clémenceau where, unfortunately, you may find a few cars parked from time to time in front of the Hôtel de Ville.)

Place Georges Clémenceau

The oldest square in Vence, Place Georges Clémenceau (usually just referred to as Place Clémenceau), can be found in the center of the old town. It’s named after the former Prime Minister of France who served from 1906 to 1909 and then again from 1917 until 1920. The Vence Cathedral (otherwise known as la Cathédrale Notre Dame de la Nativité – Cathedral of Our Lady of the Navitity) sits in the north-east corner of the square and the current Hôtel de Ville (the Town Hall) sits in the north-west corner. Boutiques and restaurants line the southern side and throughout much of the year a portion of the square is filled tables and chairs where both locals and tourists enjoy lunch or dinner. A statue, “La Vençoise,” a stunning cubist-style bronze sculpture by the Canadian artist Jim Ritchie stands in the center of the square. 

The square dates back to Roman times when it was almost certainly the site of the city’s Roman Forum, an area that served as the religious, commercial and public center of the town. It’s believed that a Roman temple once occupied the exact same spot where the cathedral now stands. Several Roman stones were discovered buried here in the 1800s when work was done to level the ground of the square. A few of these stones have been embedded into the side of the cathedral’s western wall.

As one might expect this square has changed in appearance considerably over the centuries. The Lords of Vence, also known as the Barons of Villeneuve, built their first small “intra-muros” (within the city walls)  castle here on the east side of the square next to the cathedral. It still stands there today though it has been modernized considerably and most people would never suspect that it was once considered a castle. If you walk through the arch near the southern end you’ll find yourself inside the old courtyard of this castle. To your left are some stairs that lead up to various apartments. Walk up just one floor and you’ll find a window through which you can see the remains of a crenelated wall from the old castle.

In medieval times the square was much smaller than it is today, probably not even half the current size. For centuries the north-west corner was occupied by the old episcopal residence where the bishops lived. The residence was connected to the cathedral by two bridged corridors, one on the north end and another on the south. Supported by arches, these two corridors, and the walls that supported them, created a small courtyard between the residence and the cathedral. They allowed people to pass quickly from the residence to the cathedral. 

A large garden and wall once existed next to the episcopal residence, significantly reducing the size of the square. When the garden and wall were demolished in 1879 the square was enlarged to approximately the size we see today.

During medieval times the square was more of a rough, uneven mound than a flat surface. It was necessary to descend three steps to enter the cathedral. A large project to level and lower the surface of the square was undertaken in 1805. This work required some deep excavations and this is when the Roman stones mentioned above were found. Two of the stones discovered during this work were then placed at the entrance to the cathedral, one on each side, where you can see them today. Others were embedded in the western wall of the cathedral. 

A second leveling took place between 1879 and 1880 when an even larger area was cleared. Two old houses, the Bellissein and Sémérie homes, were demolished at this time to make more room in the square. Even more artifacts were discovered. There are some indications that a well, or possibly a cistern for collecting water in the event of a siege, once existed near the center of the square, maybe as far back as the 16th century, although no evidence remains. Today the entire square is paved with small red square bricks arranged mostly in fan like arrangements.

For almost one-hundred years one of the two Marseille columns (the one now found in the Grand Jardin) was used as a support column for the fish market that was found on the south-east corner of the square just next to Place Surian. These two columns date from the early 3rd century. Historians and scholars debate about their exact origin and function. What we do know is that they were a gift from the people of Marseille to the people of Vence (hence the name). What we don’t know is exactly what they were originally used for. Some speculate they might have been part of a Roman temple. Perhaps they were mile markers on the ancient Roman road that passed through Vence. Or maybe they are the remains of a Roman monument or triumphal arch erected at the edge of Vence on the road to Castellane. After the roof of the fish market collapsed in 1927 this column was moved to Municipal Halls where it remained for several decades until it was relocated to the Grand Jardin.

You can read a more in-depth account of the Marseille Columns in this article: The Marseille Columns of Vence.

It was in 1910 that the biggest and most controversial change to the square would occur. Vence had outgrown the previous town hall, located in nearby Place Surian, and it was decided that a new one should built on the north side of Place Clémenceau. Most of the episcopal residence, as well as the south bridged corridor, was torn down to make way for a this new “contemporary” Town Hall.

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To many this new, modern edifice seemed quite out of place in the old town of Vence. Outraged citizens complained that the episcopal residence should never have been torn down in the first place and a modern building, so incongruent with the rest of the buildings in the square, should certainly never have been chosen to take its place. Many felt the original charm and elegance of the square was lost forever.

In his book, Vence Parcourue Pour Vous, Vence historian Daniel Petite describes this construction as “vandalism carried out by the municipality.” Others agreed. Another writer, Dominique Durandy said the new building was “as out of place as a fashionable dress would be in a convent of the Visitation.”

Old photos and postcards show the former episcopal residence and it was indeed a beautiful building. The bridged corridor which connected it to the cathedral on the south end was particularly charming. The demolition of this structure was a loss for the people of Vence and one that today would certainly not be allowed. Thankfully a small portion of the building, the bridged corridor on the northern side, still remains. Today it is known as Passage Cahours (named after the 20th century painter Henri-Maurice Cahours) and it is one of the most photographed places in the old town.

If you look closely on the western wall of the cathedral you can see a very noticeable change in the stonework. On the northern side are large rectangular blocks of well-formed stone in neat rows. The southern end is quite different, just a rag-tag jumble of small stones embedded in the wall. This is the scar left by the removal of the southern bridged corridor.

For many years Place Clémenceau was used as a market on Tuesdays and Thursdays. A full-page article about these markets, entitled “Finding Bargains At One of France’s Outdoor Markets” by Patricia Van Gelder, was even published in the New York Times in 1979. The markets were eventually moved to the Grand Jardin although a regular Saturday morning market returned to the square in 2024.

Over the years this square has had many names. It was once known as the Place de la Poissonnerie (Fishmongers Square) due to the fact that fish from Cros-de-Cagnes were brought here for sale. Later it was known as the Place de l’Évêché (Bishop’s Square) and then Place Mirabeau (named after the French writer, orator and statesman). When the episcopal residence was converted to a small seminary it was for a while known as the Place du Petit Séminaire (Small Seminary Square). For many years the locals often referred to it simply as the Place de l’Église (Church Square). It finally acquired the official name of Place Georges Clémenceau in 1919 though today you might also hear it referred to as the Place de la Mairie (Town Hall Square).

Today Place Clémenceau remains an energetic and bustling part of the old town. It’s used throughout the year for celebrations such as the la Danse Pascale de la Souche (The Easter Dance of the Vine), the Fête Patronale de la Sainte Elisabeth (a celebration of one of Vence’s many chapels), the Vence Fête ses Cultures (a celebration of different cultures), the Festival de Théâtre (a festival of theater and plays), vide greniers (flea markets), various food markets such as the Aux Saveurs du Monde (Flavors of the World) and arts and crafts markets. 

Place du Peyra

Of the small squares scattered throughout the old town of Vence, Place du Peyra is arguably the most idyllic and picturesque. Even before you actually enter the square you have a wonderful view of the beautiful Peyra Fountain framed within the Porte du Peyra. In the early 1900s this was one of the most popular scenes used on postcards of Vence.

Due to its proximity to the Grand Jardin, for many who visit the old town of Vence for the first time, Place du Peyra is the first thing they see. It was completely renovated and restored in 2005. The former asphalt surface was replaced with beautiful stone pavers. It is the only square in Vence to be classified as a “protected site” by the Historic Monuments.

As you move past the fountain the square opens up before you with tall medieval buildings surrounding it on all four sides. Restaurants, boutiques and art galleries occupy most of the ground level entrances. Even though the original stone façades of some of the buildings have been plastered over (a common occurrence in the 19th and 20th centuries when it became fashionable to do so), this square still retains much of its medieval appearance. Part of this is due to the fact that unlike the other squares in the Vence old town, most of the houses that have been plastered over have been painted in the Provençal style using pastel yellows, greens and blues. One house, next to the Peyra Tower, dates back to the 16th century and features a balustrade staircase. Another nearby house features a mini-turret with a spiral staircase.

This square has always been an important commercial center for Vence. Up until the early 1900s the fruit and vegetable market was held here. Before that it was a place where people would gather to discuss the business of the town, a small forum if you will. Sales, auctions and tax collections were held here. Everything from meat to bread to olives to wheat were all subject to taxes and the collection of these taxes was entrusted to whomever was willing to the bid the highest price for the job. The operation of the town’s communal ovens and mills was also put up for auction here in this square. 

Orators would use the open space to communicate with their neighbors. Over the centuries it was often used as a site for festivals (including Carnival), fairs, celebrations and other ceremonies. As Vence grew it became necessary to move most of these events to larger venues and today they are usually held in the Place du Grand Jardin or Place Clémenceau.

During the days of the feudal system, the lords of Vence had the right to compel the inhabitants of the town to come and dance in this square. One year the people refused to go and danced elsewhere causing quite a ruckus at the palace. The matter was taken to the court of Aix and an ordinance was passed which required the inhabitants of Vence to go to Place du Peyra each year, on the last day of Carnival, and perform the farandole dance there.

One of the most famous residents of Place du Peyra in recent years was a woman known by the name of Mother Trastour. She was known as the first “queen” of Vence and was said to dance with the skill and artistry of a ballerina. For many years she produced a famous nougat which was cherished by both locals and tourists. She died in 1932 at the age of almost 90 years.

At one time a magnificent chestnut tree, said to be over 200 years old, graced the center of the square with benches circling around it. Sadly, this tree was cut down in 2005. Several tree experts were consulted and they all agreed that the tree was sick and a danger to passersby. Many of the branches were hollowed out and portions of the trunk had been badly damaged by fungus. Still, there were those who whispered that the tree was really being cut down to provide more space for the restaurant tables that filled the square on busy afternoons and evenings. Thankfully, in 2023 a new tree was planted to replace the old chestnut tree. This hackberry (micocoulier) tree was planted as part of a program called “l’Arbe de Vie” (Tree of Life) that honors organ donors and their families.

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Place du Peyra is the only square in the old town of Vence with a porte (gate) that opens through the ramparts. The Porte du Peyra in its current state dates from about 1810 and is one of the five main entrances to allow access to the old town.

Built in 1822, the Peyra Fountain is one of the most recognizable and popular landmarks in Vence. It was classified as a historical monument in 1920. During the busy summer months families can be seen posing before the stone basin to have their picture taken. It’s quite possibly the most photographed landmark in Vence. At night the city lights up the fountain with beautiful green and purple lights that reflect off the water to give the entire area a magical glow. 

Designed by Etienne Goby (who hailed from nearby Grasse) and built by the stonemason Joseph Faissolle (also from Grasse), this beautiful fountain consists of a large basin shaped like a four leaf clover and a grand urn which rests on two square blocks of stone in the center of the basin. Created in the style of Louis XVI the urn consists of six different portions featuring a variety of gadroons (decorative edging formed by parallel rounded strips) and grooves, a large interlacing belt and a pine cone gracing the top. Four jets spurt water from the urn into the basin.

You can read a more in-depth account of the Fontaine du Peyra in this article: Fontaine du Peyra & Basse Fontaine – The 200 Year Celebrations.

There are several theories as to how this square acquired its name. Some say that it is derived from the Provençal word “peyrat,” meaning rock or stone, indicating that the square was paved. Or perhaps it is derived from a stone on which orators would stand to address their fellow citizens. Others claim the word dates back much further, to Roman times, and is derived from the Latin word “petra,” also meaning stone. In this case the stone does not refer to paving but to a large stone that was used to dispense justice in the form of dismemberment or execution. Hands, and even heads, were placed on the stone and then separated from the bodies of the condemned. This stone is said to have been visible in the square, next to the chestnut tree, as late as the mid 1800s, but it has since disappeared. 

Place du Peyra had its name changed to Place President Wilson at the end of the First World War. An homage to the American president who supported the French during the conflict the name change only lasted for about four years. Apparently the people of Vence were much too fond of the original name. It was also known at one time as Place de la Fontaine-Haute (High Fountain Square).

Place Godeau

Named after one of Vence’s most revered Bishops, Antoine Godeau who served from 1638 to 1672, Place Godeau is the quietest and most peaceful square in the old town. It is also the one which has changed the least over the past few centuries, retaining the look and feel of an authentic medieval square. 

The only commerce to be found here today is the small restaurant Michel Ange, whose tables are set up under a large chestnut tree near the northwest corner of the square, and a small art gallery called The Looking Glass. There are no other shops, boutiques or stores located in this square. Instead you’ll find the cathedral’s apse, bell tower and rear entrance along the western side while rows of charming old houses make up the three other sides.

One the houses along the eastern side features a beautiful sculpted Renaissance doorway with the date 1524 carved into the lintel. Unfortunately, most of this building’s façade has been covered over with plaster, though at least this magnificent doorway was spared. An authentic 13th century twinned window can be seen on another building on the northern side of the square. Another house can be seen behind a charming Gothic arch. One house on the southern side was renovated near the beginning of the 21st century and a 19th century trompe-l’œil was discovered on the walls at the time. 

On the eastern side of the square is a small street named Rue des Portiques. This street is said to be the vestige of the former Roman road which passed through Vence on the way to Castellane and Digne. The name “portique” comes from the arches that one finds in many medieval villages whereby the side of one house is connected to the side of another by a passageway over a street. These constructions allowed people to add space to their houses when there was no longer any space available at the ground level. They had the added benefit of escaping property taxes since it was the “footprint” of a building that was used to compute the tax. 

Not everything about Place Godeau has remained unchanged. An old walnut tree that provided shelter and shade for many decades had to be cut down at some point. It was replaced by two acacia trees.

In the northeast corner of the square there once existed a wonderful covered passage, known as a “pontis,” that connected two of the streets leaving from the square. It’s very prominent in many of the old postcards of this square which often feature a variety of women, men, children and animals posed under the arch. A painting from 1907 entitled “Vence un passage sous voûte” (A passage under an arch in Vence) by Alexis Mossa, an early 20th century painter from Nice, shows the archway still intact. Unfortunately, the ramshackle house that this passage supported became unstable and was deemed in danger of collapsing. The house and the archway were both demolished in 1913.

For hundreds of years, from around the 5th century until 1769, this small space next to the church served not as the calm, relaxing square it is today, but as the town cemetery. A wall and a street (both of which no longer exist) ran alongside the cemetery on the eastern side. 

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During medieval times in France (and throughout Europe) it was customary to bury the dead as close as possible to the church, which was itself usually close to the center of the town. This changed in the 1700s when the urban populations began to increase and it became clear that cemeteries in the center of town were endangering the public health. 

In 1776 King Louis XVI issued a law requiring inner-city cemeteries to be closed and the practice of burying the dead close to the churches to end. New cemeteries were to be created outside of the city walls and the dead were to be transferred there from the existing cemeteries.

A new cemetery was created on the outskirts of Vence in early 1769. The canon and vicar general at the time, Antoine Suche, blessed it on January 22nd of that year. There was however, a fair amount of disagreement between the community, the Lords of Vence and the chapter and parish priests about the moving of bodies from the old cemetery to the new one. The priests in particular were not happy about this new development. They felt that it was important for the dead to be buried close to the church to maintain the piety and reverence of the population. In the end, however, they were overruled and the concerns for hygiene and sanitation prevailed.

Once the new cemetery was opened the process of transferring the bodies from the old cemetery began. It was a slow process that continued for some time as resources and money were made available. In 1777 the city council was forced to deal the with space left by the old cemetery. Due to the disinterment of the bodies the ground had become disheveled and unkempt. It was said that bones would regularly appear on the surface in several places. Money was designated to clean up the square and to plant as many trees as necessary to beautify it.

Near the center of Place Godeau stands one of the two Roman Marseille Columns (see above) with a small fountain beside it. At one time both the columns stood together inside the Vence Cathedral supporting the vaulting of the choir. When the cathedral was enlarged, sometime around 1767, the columns were removed and temporarily abandoned. In 1774 one of the columns was erected in Place Godeau with a cross on top. A new pedestal was added to the column at that time which has inscriptions on two of the four sides commemorating the old cemetery. On one side, in Latin, is written: “Here, once, the ashes of our fathers, and they still are. 1780.”

The second side features a much longer piece of text, also in Latin: “The complete ashes of our fathers were exhumed and transferred from here to the cemetery in the year 1774, after collecting them, not all, but many of them. In this year 1780, the citizens’ council of Vence erected this column, consecrated by the sign of salvation, offered by the founders of Marseille to our Nérusiens, while we keep a second column here and that the third is missing.”   

When the cemetery emptied and the square was created it was originally named the Place du Cimetière Vieux (The Old Cemetery Square). The name was changed at some point later to Place Godeau.

Place Surian

Tucked away to the side of Place Clémenceau is the newest square in the Vence old town. Created in 1787, Place Surian (named after yet another Vence Bishop who served from 1727 to 1754) takes the shape of a slightly warped triangle (with a strange little extension on the eastern end). A large linden tree stands in the middle and during the summer months when the branches are heavy with leaves it threatens to completely engulf the tiny square. At one time two linden trees occupied this square, but one of them has disappeared. The south side of the square is populated with a small fruit and vegetable market along with several popular restaurants. Another restaurant occupies most of the eastern side. Whenever the weather is suitable to eat outdoors the square is filled almost to the brim with tables and chairs from the various restaurants, leaving only a small path for passersby to walk. 

If you look under the awning of one of these restaurants, the small Taverne St Véran, just above the doorway and to the right, you will see a stone that is said to have its origins with the Templar Knights. It contains some Roman characters and a shield with a coat of arms. Clearly it was not a part of the original building but was added at some later date. What its exact origins are is unknown.

Up until recently the northern side of the square consisted of a fish market known as Poissonnerie des Halles, but this market has now moved to a location on the Grand Jardin in anticipation of the building being renovated. Next to the former fish market stands another large building that has fallen into considerable disrepair. The very faint black letters at the top of the doorway announce that this was once the Hôtel de Ville (the Town Hall). Above the faded name is a wonderful three-dimensional reproduction, carved in stone, of the Vence coat of arms: a crenellated silver tower with five pieces, masoned in sable on an azure background.

Nestled between the town hall and another building to its right, you’ll notice a very small, very narrow structure with strong iron bars on the windows. This odd little edifice is said to have once been the town jail.

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Abandoned in 1910 when the new town hall was put into service this old structure is now a mere shadow of its former self. If you take the time to look closely though you can still make out what a beautiful building it must have once been. It’s been vacant for at least twenty-five years. There has been continual talk of renovating it and making better use of the space. At the end of the 1990s there was a proposal to completely demolish it and build something new. For one reason or another this never came to pass.

Decades later the city of Vence purchased the property with the intent of developing some type of retail center. A few years down the road and work still does not seem to have begun on this project. Hopefully we will not have to wait too much longer to see this wonderful old building reborn as something new.

When this town hall was to be built in 1787 (replacing a previous town hall that stood in the exact same spot) a small block of decrepit houses occupied the space just across from it. It was decided that these houses should be demolished and removed to provide some space and light around the town hall and thus Place Surian was created. 

One of the many fountains in Vence supplied by the nearby spring called La Foux is situated against the north wall. For years the water was allowed to run interrupted but after the droughts of 2022 and 2023 a small pedal was installed for conservation purposes which allows users start the flow of the water.

For decades Place Surian was filled each morning with the stalls of local farmers offering their produce, meat, dairy products, honey, olive oil and more to the locals and tourists. Today they are nowhere to be seen as these morning markets have moved to the much larger Place du Grand Jardin. 

During the time of the French Revolution it is said that many precious objects from the Vence cathedral were burned and destroyed here in Place Surian. 

Place de la Rouette and Place de l’Évêché

There are two more very small squares in the old town of Vence: Place de l’Évêché and Place de la Rouette. They’re easy to miss if you don’t know where to look for them. Neither of them are even mentioned in any of the books about Vence so there’s no information, at least that I can find, on their history or origins.

Place de l’Évêché is the larger of the two. Located just around the corner from Place Clémenceau it can be found on the southern side of Rue de l’Évêché. It’s small, but definitely what one would consider a “place” or square, though there’s not much to see. It’s mostly taken up by a huge linden tree which sits in the center of the square surrounded by a pretty stone base. The Restaurant La Litote is just across the street and when they are open the square is filled with their tables and chairs. There are a couple of art galleries and shops on the ground level. It’s nicely paved with the same beautiful stones that are used on Rue de l’Évêché.

Place de la Rouette is tiny, not much more than a small open space where three little streets meet around the corner from Place Godeau. It’s one of those “places” that begs the question: what exactly defines a “place” or a “square?” Is it a square simply because someone says so and gives it a name? The ground is asphalt and the residents have placed some large potted plants around which brightens it up considerably.

Place Vieille

Is Place de la Rouette the smallest square in the old town of Vence? After having visited each of the above six squares one might think so. But you would be wrong. That distinction goes to the very, very small Place Vieille, located just off of Rue de la Place Vieille in the north-western part of the old town.

Several sources say that in 1996 the Guinness Book Of World Records declared this the smallest square in France, but I have not been able to find any actual documentation of this. This little “square” is so small it’s really not much more than a widened section of a small street. Maybe it was significantly larger at some point and its size has been reduced by the encroachment of nearby houses? Was it once an important part of the old town that merited its name? Regardless of whether this little patch of asphalt deserves to be called a square or not, it’s worth a quick visit. Elvis Costello even filmed part of a music video here in 1980!

Access

Vence can easily be reached from just about anywhere in France by taking the A8 until you get to Cagnes-sur-Mer. If you are coming from the east get off on Exit 48 and if you are coming from the west you’ll want Exit 47. Take the M336, then the M36 and finally the M236 north into Vence. The most accessible parking is in the Parking du Grand Jardin, right next to the old town. Parking Toreille and Marie Antoinette Parking are both close by as well.

There are two buses which run from Nice to Vence: #9 and #655. Just be careful with the #9, it can be a bit confusing because it has two routes leaving from the Park Phoenix in Nice. One route stops at the Polygon Riviera mall which is still about 8kms from Vence. Look at the route displayed on the front of the bus at the top. It should say “L’Ara” which is the last bus stop in Vence. All the #9 buses returning to Nice from Vence go all the way to Park Phoenix.

There is no train service directly to Vence. You can take the train to Cagnes-sur-Mer and then take either the #9 or #655 bus from Cagnes-sur-Mer to Vence.

The Vence Office de Tourisme is just across the street from the Grand Jardin. The old town, its ramparts and the portes are just a very short walk from any of the above parking lots. While you can visit the old town at any time, on any day of the year, I would suggest that you try to come on any day but Sunday or Monday so that you might enjoy some of the shops and boutiques that will otherwise be closed.